Riding the steam line, and whether to bother

By Ruth Ardsley · 5 min read

The North Yorkshire Moors Railway runs a preserved steam line from the edge of the moors down to the coast sounds like something you do once for the novelty. We have done it four times and would do it again, which surprised us more than anybody.

Which direction

Inland to the coast. The line climbs out of the valley, crosses open moor for a good stretch, and then drops down to the sea, and doing it in that order means the best bit is the middle rather than the beginning.

What it is actually like

Slow. Deliberately, structurally slow. Windows that open, which matters, because the whole experience is smell as much as anything. Sit on the left going out.

Practical

Book ahead in summer and do not book at all in February, when you can walk on. The buffet car is better than it needs to be.